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The following is an complete tutorial from the book "Wireless Hacking: Projects for Wi-fi Enthusiasts" by Syngress Publishing.
 Whether your wireless system is a simple home office setup or a large-scale outdoor wireless network, the antenna system is the most important, but often most overlooked, aspect of the system. The antenna system is often the “make or break” factor for a successful wireless transmission. Poor antenna selection or design can lead to frustration and intermittent connectivity problems. This translates into poor throughput performance and frustrated wireless users.
In this article, we explore the important issues surrounding antenna selection for any 2.4 or 5 GHz unlicensed wireless system. You’ll get all the information you need to achieve the best performance possible. We’ll examine many types of commercially available antennas, and you’ll see how you can build your own antenna as an alternative, using inexpensive materials from the local hardware store.
Topics in this Article:
- Before You Start: Basic Concepts and
Definitions
- Building a Waveguide “Coffee Can”
Antenna
- The Future of Antennas
At the conclusion of this article, you should:
- Understand the
different decibel (dB) measurements and how to use them correctlych
- Understand the
Federal Communications Commission (FCC) rules and power output requirements for
operation in the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands
- Understand the
different types of antennas and use Figures of Merit (FOMs) to determine the
best choice
- Understand the “3
dB” rule and its importance in determining system performance
- Understand
“wavelengths” and use a formula to determine how long an antenna needs to be
for a given frequency
- Determine system
performance requirements using the link budget calculation
- Estimate the
“fresnel zone” to determine antenna height and orientation
- Understand how
different building materials can affect performance
- Be aware of
safety precautions such as lightning arrestors, proper grounding techniques,
and building code adherence
Before You Start: Basic Concepts and Definitions
Before you can install and/or construct any antenna, there are
several terms and calculations with which you should be familiar. While a
degree in physics is not necessary, a basic understanding of physics is
helpful.
An antenna is simply a passive transducer that radiates energy
(gain) into space. Antennas do not actually amplify the signal; they
simply change the shape of the energy pattern being radiated. You should be
able to select or construct a basic antenna for your use once you understand
the basics of antenna design, construction, and operation.
The decibel is the most important unit of measurement when
looking at antenna performance. The decibel (or dB) is the basic unit used for
radio frequency (RF) power measurement. Table 10.1 lists decibel power levels
in relation to wattage levels.
Table 10.1 Transmit
Power in Decibels
Watts Decibels
1/1000 0
dB
1/100 1
0dB
1/10 20
dB
¼ 24
dB
½ 27
dB
1 30
dB
2 33
dB
5 37
dB
We use decibel measurements because signal strengths vary
logarithmically, not linearly. A logarithmic scale allows simple numbers to
represent large variations in signal levels. You’ll see it’s also very useful
in calculating system gains and losses. In the following sections, we’ve
included brief definitions of all the terms we’ll be using in this article:
- dB Decibel.
The basic unit of measurement that represents the ratio of two signal levels.
- dBm/dBW
Decibel milliWatt. This measurement is used to represent power, with 0 dBm
defined as 1 milliWatt. For larger signals, there is also dBW, a reference to
1W. Small signals are represented as negative numbers, (for example, –95 dBm).
When referencing commercial Wi-Fi devices, power output is normally given in
dBm. Many WLAN PCMCIA cards and some Access Points (APs) have a power output of
+17dBm (50mW). There is also usually a Receive Signal Sensitivity Indicator
(RSSI) measurement listed in dBm (for example, –95dBm).
- dBd
Decibel dipole. The output power (gain) an antenna has over a dipole antenna at
the same frequency. A dipole (two-pole) antenna is a ½ wave antenna used as a
reference against all other antennas. It is a reference known as 0 dBd (zero
decibel referenced to dipole). The dBd measurement is usually used only with
antennas below 1 GHz.
- dBi
Decibel isotropic. This measurement is used for antennas above 1 GHz .A dipole
antenna has 2.14 dB higher gain than the 0 dBi dipole reference. If antenna
gain is given in dBd, not dBi, add 2.14 to convert to the dBi rating.
Need
to Know…RF Power
There are several
basic rules that you should know when working with antennas, RF power, and
expected signal strength. The “3 dB” rule is perhaps the most important rule when
dealing with RF (signal) power. It states that for every 3 dB increase in
level, the power is doubled. For every 3 dB decrease, the power is cut
in half. Similarly, every 10 dB increase in level is 10 times the power, and
every 10 dB decrease in level results in 1/10 the power. This is sometimes
referred to as the “rule of 3s and 10s.”
Once you understand the different decibel measurements, it is
easy to understand Figures of Merit (FoMs) when working with antennas. FOMs are
attributes that describe an antenna’s performance characteristics. The FoMs are
listed as part of every antenna’s specifications. Important FoM attributes like
gain and front-to-back ratio are listed in dB or dBm. There are many
other RF terms and figures that use decibel reference and values (these terms
are explained in greater detail later in this article). Once you are familiar
with FoMs in general, it will be easy to recognize the important features of
antennas and choose the best antenna for your application.
Effective Isotropic Radiated Power (EIRP) is defined as the
power found in the main lobe of the antenna relative to an Isotropic
radiator with 0 dB of gain. The EIRP is calculated by taking the antenna gain
(in dBi) plus the power (in dBm) inbound from the transmitter. For example, a
9dBi antenna fed with 26 dBm of power would have an EIRP of 35 dBm.
9 dBi + 26 dBm = 35 dBm (3.2W)
The chart on the left in Figure 10.1, known as a Smith chart,
shows the propagation area of a Yagi antenna (image on the right of the
figure). A Smith chart is included with any antenna specification and
represents the radiation pattern of the antenna. It also shows the
front-to-back ratio, and the “side lobes,” which are the smaller, less powerful
radiation patterns on each side of the main lobe.
Figure 10.1 Representation
of a Unidirectional Yagi Antenna Radiation Pattern

The top pattern represents the main lobe and transmit gain. The
lower pattern the back lobe. The difference (in dB) between the front and back
lobe is called the front-to-back ratio.
A
Word about Antenna Gain and Coverage
Since the EIRP is
in the main antenna lobe only, antenna selection is critical.
When using a
high-gain omni antenna (8–12 dBi), the propagation angle is very flat and
narrow. Placing the antenna too high will cause the main lobe to pass over the
intended target antenna. The irony here is that height is required to clear
obstructions, a.k.a. Line-of-Sight, from the Wireless Point of Presence (WiPoP)
path to the receivers. Higher gain omni antennas have a flatter, “pancake”
shape, while lower gain omni antennas tend to have a wider “donut” shaped
pattern.
It may be necessary
to use a unidirectional antenna and “down tilt” that concentrates the energy
(signal) in a more focused area. Unidirectional antennas direct energy in one
direction by radiating the entire signal in a concentrated area instead of 360
degrees like an omni. Table 10.2 lists antenna types and associated values in
dBi (gain). Figures 10.2 through 10.6 are images of these antenna types.
Table 10.2 Typical
Antenna Types and Gain Values for Off-the-Shelf Antennas
Antenna Type Gain
(dBi as we’re dealing with >1GHz) Freq.
Unity gain Omni 0
dBi
Low Gain Omni 2–6
dBi
High Gain Omni 8–12
dBi
4 x 6″ Panel (Unidirectional) 7
dBi
Small Yagi 10
dBi
8″– 10″ Panel (Uni) 13
dBi
12″ Panel (Uni) 16
dBi
Long Yagi 16
dBi
18″ Parabolic Dish 19
dBi
18″ Diagonal Mesh/Grid
Antenna 21 dBi
24″ Diagonal Mesh/Grid
Antenna 24 dBi
Figure 10.2 8
dBi Omni

Figure 10.3 8
dBi Uni (Panel)

Figure 10.4 Large
Omni

Figure 10.5 24″
x 36″ Mesh Grid Antenna (21 dBi)

Figure 10.6 Yagi
(12 dBi)

Note…
Interesting Antenna
An interesting
antenna type has been developed by cantenna.com. This “super cantenna”
resembles a Pringles can antenna, is linearly polarized, and features a gain of
12 dBi and a beam width of 30 degrees. You can learn more about this
innovative, low-cost product at www.cantenna.com.

Federal Communications Commission
A common misconception when using ‘unlicensed’ equipment is
that there are no rules covering the operation of such equipment. While there
are no license requirements, the FCC does have some regulations with respect to
the maximum power output levels when using unlicensed equipment. Part 15 of the
FCC’s rules for radio equipment lists the specific power requirements. We
discuss the pertinent limitations in this section.
The FCC has relaxed the rules on EIRP limits for Point-to-Point
(PtP) systems. This has increased the choices of antennas and extended the range
of PtP systems. The EIRP for a 2.4–2.5 GHz PtP system is now 36dBm (an amazing
4 watts!) We must calculate a link budget to determine the total EIRP, and
remain in FCC compliance. The FCC allows only 30 dBm (1W) EIRP for
Point-to-Multipoint (PtMP) communications. This limits the antenna choices and
makes the calculation of system output very important. However, for most
off-the-shelf commercial equipment using attached antennas, the output is
50–200 mW. This coupled with a 6 dBi antenna is well below FCC limits. Using
the previous charts and remembering the rules will help you calculate power
levels and remain in compliance. A good rule to remember for 2.4 GHz PtP
systems is that for every 3 dBi of antenna gain over 6 dBi, the transmitter
power output must be reduced by 1 dB. For 2.4 GHz PtMP, every 3 dBi of antenna
gain over 6 dBi must be met with a 3 dB reduction in transmitter power.
The 5 GHz band has various output power limits. The limits
depend upon the sub-band within the 5 GHz band in which you’re operating. The
lower portions of the 5 GHz unlicensed band are between 5.15 and 5.25 GHz The
output for these devices is fixed at a maximum of 50 mW. The 5.25–5.35 GHz
middle sub-band has a power limit of 250 mW.
The 5.725–5.825 GHz upper band is normally used for high
bandwidth (T-1 > OC-3) transmissions associated with microwave radio. This
band has most recently been adopted by many Wireless Internet Service Providers
(WISPs) as a high data rate “backhaul” solution. This removes congestion from
the 2.4 GHz (DSSS) frequency band and allows much more bandwidth (users) to be
concentrated for transmission.
The Link Budget is the calculation of the losses and gains (in
dB) for the complete RF system, and is determined using a simple formula that
combines all the power and gain figures for both sides of a link.
Link Budget = P(t) + TX(G) + Rx(G) + Rx - Path Loss
Where:
- P(t) = power of
transmitter (e.g., 17 dBm)
- TX(G) = transmit
antenna gain (e.g., 6 dBi)
- RX(G) = receive
antenna gain (e.g., 6 dBi)
- Rx = Receive
Sensitivity of receiver
The numbers are the gain figures used in a link budget.
We will also look at the loss or attenuation levels—caused by cables,
connectors, and so forth—that must also be factored into the final Link
Budget calculation. (A good online calculator can be found at
www.beagle-ears.com/afar-www/v01/RF_calc.htm.)
Path loss, the amount of loss in dB that occurs when a radio
signal travels through free space (air), is also known as Free Space Loss (FSL)
. FSL can be calculated using the following formula:
FSL (isotropic) = 20Log10 (Freq in MHz) + 20Log10 (Distance
in Miles) + 36.6
Additional factors you should consider when determining your
link’s requirements:
- Radiation
pattern/propagation angle The propagation angle is given in degrees and
denotes how much area in degrees an antenna broadcasts its signal. Example:
Vertical angle = 45 degrees, Horizontal angle = 7 degrees. Search the Internet
for various antenna manufacturers to find examples of Smith charts that
represent various propagation angles.
- Polarity
All antennas have a “pole” (short for polarity), which can be horizontal,
vertical, or circularly polarized. Polarity indicates the angle of the RF
wave’s propagation in reference to an H/V/C plane. You must insure that
all Wi-Fi systems you want to communicate with have antennas on the same pole.
The difference in H/V poles (if for example, one antenna is horizontally
polarized and the other is vertically polarized) is a loss of 30 dB.
- Vertical/horizontal
beam width This is the angle of the RF “beam” referenced to the horizontal
or vertical plane. Typically, the higher the gain, the more focused (narrow)
the beam. Example: A 24 dBi antenna commonly has an 18-degree beam width, vs. a
9 dBi antenna, which will have a 45- to 60-degree beam width.
- Fresnel zone
The Fresnel zone is the propagation path that the signal will take through the
air. The Fresnel zone can be determined using the following formula. The
Fresnel zone is important when installing Line-of-Site equipment, because if
the Fresnel zone or any part of it is obstructed, it will have a direct and
negative effect on the system connectivity.
Fresnel Zone Calculation = 72.1 * SqrRoot(Dst1Mi * Dist2Mi /
Freq (in GHz) * Distance-in- Miles
You can find a good online Fresnel zone calculator at
www.radiolan.com/fresnel.html.
- Front-to-back
ratio An antenna’s front-to-back ratio is typically given in dB and
denotes how much signal is projected behind the antenna, relative to the signal
projected in front of the antenna (in the main lobes). The lower the
front-to-back ratio, measured in dB, the better. The reason is that you don’t
want excessive signal propagating from the rear of the antenna.
- Link Margin
The Link Margin, sometimes called System Operating Margin (SOM), is the minimum
difference between the received signal (in dBm) and the sensitivity of the
receiver required for error-free operation. In many systems, this is also
referred to as the Signal-to-Noise-Ratio (SNR).
Table 10.3 lists Fade Margins for various link distances.
Table 10.3 Fade
Margins for Various Link Distances
Distance (Miles) Conservative
Fade Margin (dB)
0.5 4.2
1 7.5
2 10.8
3 12.75
4 14.1
5 15.2
10 18.5
15 20.4
In many newer radios, a Signal to Noise Ratio (SNR)
specification is used instead of the RSSI reading/measurement. Motorola’s 5 GHz
Canopy system requires only 3 dB SNR to achieve connectivity, while Alvarion’s
EasyBridge 5.8 GHz system expects a minimum 10 dB SNR for connectivity. Several
good Web sites provide calculators for Fresnel Zone, Fade Margin, and Path
Loss:
Need
to Know…The bigger they are, the farther they call
Size does matter!
It may be necessary to increase the size of your antenna if you find that you
can’t quite get the desired distance or throughput from your link. Remember the
“6 dB” rule when thinking about antennas (size), propagation distance, and path
loss. The rule states that each time you double the distance from transmitter
to receiver, the signal level decreases by 6 dB.
Attenuation in Cables, Connectors, and Materials
Attenuation is the reduction in signal due to cable length,
connectors, adapters, environment, or building materials. Often, indoor
wireless systems will suffer extreme attenuation due to metal cross members or
rebar within walls. It is important to consider the type of building materials
used for either indoor systems or systems where client antennas are mounted
indoors while AP antennas are outdoors at a distance. It is also important to
take the figures for cable and connector loss into account when calculating
your link budget.
Table 10.4 lists common building materials and the expected
loss in dB.
Table 10.4 Attenuation
Factors for Various Materials
Material Attenuation
Factor/dB Loss
Plasterboard wall 3
dB
Glass wall with metal frame 6
dB
Cinder block wall 4
dB
Office window 3
dB
Metal door 6
dB
Metal door in brick wall 12.4
dB
The most common cables used in unlicensed wireless include:
- RG-58 Commonly
used for pigtails and is not recommended for long runs. Loss at 2.4 GHz per 100
feet = 24.8 dB.
- LMR 195
Identical in gauge to RG 58, but with less loss. Loss at 2.4 GHz per 100 feet =
18.6 dB.
- LMR 400
Used most commonly for antenna runs over 6 feet. Loss at 2.4 GHz per 100 feet =
6.6 dB.
- LMR 600
The best, but also the most expensive cable. Loss at 2.4 GHz per 100 feet = 4.3
dB.
The loss quoted for any cable specification is generally per
100 feet. The loss factor is important to remember when installing outdoor
systems. For both cables and connectors, the loss factor is commonly listed as
“insertion loss.” A good online cable loss calculator can be found at
www.timesmicrowave.com/cgi-bin/calculate.pl.
Figures 10.7 through 10.11 are examples of connector types used
in unlicensed wireless systems. In most cases, it is assumed that the loss per
connector is between .2 and 1.0 dB. Many people use .5 dB of loss per connector
as a general rule of thumb. If a connector is suspect and produces more loss,
it is either of poor design or is faulty.
Figure 10.7 “N”
Type

Figure 10.8 SMA

Figure 10.9 MMCX

Figure 10. 10 TNC

Figure 10.11
Reverse Polarity (R/P) TNC

System Grounding and Lightning Protection
Since an antenna is a metal object with a corresponding wire
connection and is elevated several feet in the air, it unfortunately makes an
excellent lightning rod. It is always recommended that you use both an earth
ground and a lightning arrestor when installing antennas outdoors. The earth
ground should be connected to the antenna mast and the antenna tower to ground
electrical charges (lightning). It is also recommended to use a lightning
arrestor to protect radio equipment. The insertion loss of a good lightning
arrestor is commonly a maximum of 1.5 dB.
Figure 10.12 shows a typical lightning arrestor.
Figure 10. 12 Common Lightning Arrestor for 2.4 GHz

Warning:
Hardware Harm
The labeling on the
lightning arrestor denotes the antenna port connection and the equipment
(radio) port connection. Connecting the device in reverse may result in damage
to equipment and systems. It is also quite probable that the system will not
work or performance will be severely degraded.
The lightning arrestor should be located between the radio
equipment and the antenna. Figure 10.13 is an example of a small unidirectional
antenna with jumper plus a lightning arrestor and pigtail assembly. This could
be mounted on a pole, on the side of an eave, or in conjunction with an outdoor
box containing the radio.
Figure 10.13
Lightning Arrestor Mounting Scenario

Warning:
Hardware Harm
It is always
recommended that proper grounding techniques and lightning protection devices
be used when installing any antenna system outdoors. Always use caution when
installing antennas, especially when using extended masts or building tower
sections. It should be prominently displayed on or near all outdoor antenna
installations.
Building a Coffee Can Antenna
If you’d rather not purchase antennas from one of the many
vendors available, there are many Do-It-Yourself designs available. For those
of you who are interested in experimenting, we’ll start with building a coffee
can antenna. The coffee can antenna hack we’ll be describing here will provide
up to 11 dBi of gain at 2.4 GHz.
Preparing for the Hack
Before constructing any antenna, there are two important
formulas you need to know. The first is a Frequency/Wavelength formula. For our
purposes, we’ll use Megahertz instead of Gigahertz.
This tells us the wavelength for our coffee can antenna. For
example, if we use 2.45 GHz (the middle of 2.4 GHz band), we get a wavelength
of = .4016 feet (984/2450).
The materials required for this hack are:
- Garden-variety
coffee can as shown in Figure 10.14 (Folgers or Maxwell House will do). The
best cans will be 3 to 3.5 inches in diameter, as long as possible.
- 1.2″ brass
rod or 12-gauge solid core electrical wire
- Type “N” bulkhead
connector
- Four very small
nuts and bolts (long enough to extend through the connector and can)
Figure 10.14
Coffee Can

Performing the Hack
To perform the hack:
1. Drill a ½″ hole, for the type “N” connector.
If your can has a 3″ diameter, the hole should be
3.75″ from the bottom of the can.
If your can has a 3.25″ diameter, the hole should be
2.5″ from the bottom of the can.
If your can has a 3.5″ diameter, the hole should be
2.07″ from the bottom of the can.
If your can has a 3.75″ diameter, the hole should be
1.85″ from the bottom of the can.
If your can has a 4″ diameter, the hole should be
1.72″ from the bottom of the can.
2. Tin the bulkhead connector by applying a light coat of
solder to the “inside” center pin (the opposite side of where the cable is
connected).
3. Cut a brass rod 1.2″ in length and solder the
connector to the brass rod. You can also use solid 12-gauge electrical wire.
Figure 10.15 shows “helping hands,” which can be useful when you need an extra
set of hands for soldering. Figure 10.16 shows a completed element.
4. Insert the bulkhead connector into the can (the wire/rod
portion goes in the can; the other side, where the cable attaches, goes outside
the can). Use the four bolts/nuts to secure the connector in place. You may
need to drill some small pilot holes in the can to put the bolts through.
Figure 10.17 shows a completed coffee can antenna.
Figure 10.15
“Helping Hands” Helpful when Soldering Wire and Connectors

Figure 10. 16 The Completed “Waveguide” Element

Figure 10. 17 The Completed Coffee Can Antenna

The coffee-can side of the pigtail is an “N” connector, while
the other side (for connecting to the radio) is an SMA connector. Various types
of connectors may be used depending on the connector interface required by the
PC card or subscriber unit.
Need
to Know…Save the Jumper/Pull the Pigtail
It is important to
remember that most wireless APs will require a short cable commonly referred to
as a “pigtail” to interface between the antenna and the AP. This cable is
usually 3″–6″ in length with connectors on each end. There are
several types of connectors used on commercial APs and client cards. It is also
sometimes necessary to use a short “jumper” cable between the lightning
arrestor or outdoor enclosure and the antenna. These cables should be 6″
to 10″. Figure 10.18 shows a complete antenna plus arrestor assembly.
Figure 10.19 shows a 6″ N-to-N jumper used between the antenna and
lightning arrestor.
Figure 10.18
A Common 10″ Pigtail with “N” Connector and MMCA (PCMCIA)
Connector

Figure 10.19
A 6″ N-to-N Jumper Used between the Antenna and Lightning Arrestor

Under the Hood: How the Hack Works
Lightning arrestors are basically voltage “redirectors” that
really do not eliminate all electrical charges. However, the standard ¼ wave
stub lightning arrestors from PolyPhaser are the best type for unlicensed
wireless in the 2.4 to 5 GHz frequency range. It is important to remember that
lightning arrestors are rated for frequency. Always check the specifications
for lightning arrestors prior to purchase and installation.
Troubleshooting Common Antenna Issues
It is often necessary to troubleshoot systems when performance
falls short of expectations. The following tips will help you determine what
the problem(s) might be with lack of or poor signal quality, poor throughput
performance, or a combination thereof.
When there is no reception, and power and system connections
appear correct, some possible problems could be:
- Antenna polarity
is reverse of distant antenna
- Lightning arrestor
is installed backward
- RF cable has
incorrect termination or excessive loss
Poor signal strength on wireless monitor or radio LED
indicators could be because:- Connectors not
tight
- Cables poorly
terminated
- Lightning
arrestor backward
Intermittent signal fluctuations during transmission and
reception could be the result of:
- Interferences
from friendly or phantom transmitters or equipment (microwave, cordless phone,
other APs)
- Multiple antennas
on the same polarity—try switching one or alternating antennas to the cross
(reverse) pole
The Future of Antennas
Recently, there have been some exciting developments in the
field of antenna technology, specifically related to Wi-Fi and the coming WiMax
systems. Airgo Networks Inc. (www.airgonet.com) has developed antenna
technology based on the yet-to-be-ratified 802.11n MIMO standard. The MIMO
acronym stands for Multiple Input/Multiple Output, and uses multiple antennas
to increase the range of 802.11 wireless systems. It is designed to increase
speed, improve reliability, and reduce interference. These systems (claim to)
provide four times (4X!) the coverage area of standard antennas.
Array COM is another vendor that has developed so-called
“smart” antenna systems. These smart antenna systems are capable of remote
tuning and/or automatic gain and beam width adjustment based on sampled
conditions. The following is a list of these antenna types and a brief
description of each:
- Dual polarity
antennas Antennas that are capable of either horizontal or vertical
polarity. The antennas commonly have separate connectors for both H and V
polarity It is not possible to operate at both polarities simultaneously.
- Multi-gain and
variable beam, tunable antennas A multiple gain, variable beam antenna is
capable of operating at various gains, given a desired beam width. Typically,
the higher the gain, the more focused the beam width. A common antenna of this
type is a TelTek 2304–3. The antenna has settings for 60, 90, 120, beam width.
The gain figures rise as the beam width decreases. Example: 24 dBi gain @ 60
degrees, 12 dBi @ 90 degrees.
- “Smart”
antennas Antennas that adjust automatically to the performance
characteristics of the system.
Summary
In this article, we reviewed RF Math (rule of 10s and 3s),
antenna types, FCC regulations, polarization, Fresnel zones, connector types,
and safety issues (grounding and lightning arrestors). We also took you through
the steps to build your own coffee can antenna.
Selecting the right antenna for your project is one of the most
important steps of any wireless deployment. Antennas do not actually increase
the system power. Rather, they merely “reshape” the RF pattern and focus the
energy in a particular direction. Antennas are rated with various “gains,” as
measured in decibels (dB). Use good cables and connectors to help defend
against unnecessary signal loss. Thicker, more expensive cables often have the
lowest amount of loss.
Always be sure to pay special attention to safety issues. As
outdoor mounted antennas are at risk of lightning strikes, make sure to use a
lightning arrestor and proper grounding for both your antenna and mast. Be sure
to use safety cables for your antennas and antenna masts to make sure that
nobody is injured below if a mast were to accidentally come loose or fall. |